The field of RC has numerous different facets; there’s really something for everyone. One of the areas I’ve set my sights on mastering is definitely the drift segment. It basically goes against everything I’ve learned in relation to driving sliding is superior to grip, more power does not mean a quicker vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic is superior to rubber. Then when 3Racing sent over their Axial SCX10, I needed to scoop one as much as see what all the hoopla was using this type of drifter.
WHO MAKES IT: 3Racing
WHO IT’S FOR: Any degree of drift enthusiast
PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD
Exactly How Much: $115.00
BUILD TYPE: Kit
• AWD for simple learning ?
• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?
• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?
• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?
• Battery positioning ahead of the motor or about the rear diffuser ?
• Aluminum motor mount ?
• Threaded shocks ?Lots of tuning adjustment ?
• Extremely affordable pric
• Front drive belt slips from the roller bearing
This drifter has a lot opting for it; well manufactured, a lot of pretty aluminum and rolls in in a very reasonable price. Handling is great as well once you become accustomed to the kit setup, and it accepts an extremely number of body styles. There’s also a ton of tunability for those that like to tinker, so this car should grow along when your skills do.
The D4’s chassis can be a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. It has cutouts at the base for that front and back diffs to peek through together with a bazillion countersunk holes. Most of these can be used for mounting stuff like the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but there are actually a number of left empty. They can be used to control chassis flex, but not using the stock top deck; an optional one must be found. The design is comparable to a typical touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system and finally the rear bulkhead/ suspension. Things are all readily accessible and replaceable with just a couple turns of some screws.
? Aside from several interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is much like a touring car’s. An individual A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are employed, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to raise them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The back suspension uses vertical ball studs to manage camber and roll even though the front uses an appealing, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This method allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on lower and upper pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and permits some extreme camber settings.
? One thing that’s pretty amazing with drift cars will be the serious level of steering throw they have got. Beginning with the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart so that as next to the edges of your chassis as you can. This produces a massive 65° angle, enough to manipulate the D4 in even the deepest of slides. Since drifters spend most of their time sideways, I needed an excellent servo to take care of the continual countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.
While not needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to take care of any steering angle changes I need it a moment’s notice.
? The D4 relies on a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. A tremendous, 92T 48P spur is coupled to the central gear shaft, the location where the front and back belts meet. Pulleys maintain the front belt high on top of the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the ability towards the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to enable the use of a selection of different wheel and tire combos.
? To give the D4 a certain amount of beauty, I opted for 3racing Sakura D4 body from ABC Hobby. This really is a beautiful replica of this car and included a slick set of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure the best way to paint it, having said that i do remember a method I used some time back that got a bit of attention. So, I gave the RX-3 a try of pearl white around the underside, but painted the fenders black on the exterior. After everything was dry, I shot the exterior by using a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I adore the last result … and it was easy. That’s good because I’m a really impatient painter!
ON THE TRACK
Just for this test, I had the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter on the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I used to be heading there to do a photograph shoot for one more vehicle and thought, heck, why not take it along and obtain some sideways action?
The steering in the D4 is pretty amazing. When I mentioned earlier, the throw is actually a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference from your parts. Including the CVD’s can make that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. Although it does look a bit funny with the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does an amazing job of keeping the slide controlled and moving in the proper direction. This can be, partly, on account of the awesome handling in the D4, but also the speedy Futaba servo.
Drifting is not about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I am aware that sounds odd, but when you’ve mastered the wheel speed of the drifter, it is possible to control the angle of attack and the sideways motion through any corner. I discovered Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to accomplish exactly that make controlled, smooth throttle modifications to alter the angle of the D4 when and where I needed. Sliding in the little shallow? Add more throttle to have the tail end to whip out. Starting to over cook the corner? Ease up somewhat and the D4 would get right back in line. It’s all a matter of ? nesse, as well as the Novak system is made for just that. I have done really need to be a little bit creative using the install in the system because of only a little space about the chassis, but overall it determined great.
After driving connected touring cars for a while, it can go on a little becoming accustomed to with the knowledge that an automobile losing grip and sliding is the proper way around the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control when you get it, it’s beautiful. Going for a car and pitching it sideways by way of a sweeper, while keeping the nose pointed in at under two or three inches in the curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled uncontrollable thing, as well as the D4 will it wonderfully. The kit setup is useful, but if you believe such as you require more of something anything there’s lots of points to adjust. I actually enjoyed the automobile with the kit setup and it was just dependent on battery power pack or two before I was swinging the back across the hairpins, around the carousel and to and fro with the chicane. I never had a chance to strap the battery around the diffuser, but that’s something I’m looking forward to.
There’s not a whole lot you could do to damage a drift car they’re really not going everything fast. I did so, however, offer an issue with the front belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the very top deck. In the initial run, it suddenly felt like the D4 acquired a little drag brake. I kept with it, attempting to overcome the matter with driving, but soon was required to RPM Traxxas Revo parts it directly into actually give it a look. Throughout the build, the belt slips right into a plastic ‘tunnel’ which is maintained by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted such things as the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square about the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, if the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide away from the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it comes in touch with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura a longer screw with a few 1mm shims to space the bearing out a tad bit more. Problem solved.